FK talks to Sydney based fashion designer Anne from The Eleventh Hour about her current pop up shop space at Gaffa Gallery as part of the Arcade Project which we are hosting up until Christmas.

Tell us about your label.
The Eleventh Hour is a contemporary womens wear label that is based in Sydney. The designs are strong and modern while still retaining a sense of romance and femininity. The Eleventh Hour’s collections are for the modern day woman who thinks about what she wears, appreciates quality in design and workmanship and is not afraid to be a little self indulgent.

What is your background and what lead you to creating your own label?
I remember drawing and designing costumes growing up as a child. One of my earliest childhood memories would be watching traditional Chinese opera with my grandfather and I would often use the costumes as inspiration in my sketches. My passion for design seemed to grow throughout the years and by the end of high school, I knew I wanted to make a career being a designer.
I designed for Kirrily Johnston after graduating from college and worked for her for three years. I was very fortunate as this gave me the opportunity to develop and grow as a designer.
My personal goal has always been to eventually work and design under my own label and working for Kirrily gave me the confidence to do so. I took some time off to travel and see the world and when I returned, The Eleventh Hour was created.

Who or what inspires your work?
My main source of inspiration would be from music. The main inspiration behind the current collection was taken from the song, Modern Romance by the YeahYeahYeahs. I love the narrative of the song and its interpretation of love and romance within the modern world. I think being Sydney born and raised plays a large role to who I am and my design aesthetics as well. I best describe my style as ‘relaxed glamour’ and this can be largely accredited to the laid back fashion approach of Sydney-siders. I want my designs to be directional yet wearable at the same time and I always keep this in mind when designing.

What can we expect to discover in your Arcade Space?
I want the arcade space to represent the label – minimal with finer, subtle details to set it apart. I’m really excited about having my collection displayed in such a beautiful space. I love the interior of the rooms at Gaffa Gallery, so I plan to keep the display quite minimal. I want the clothes to be the main dialogue between the viewer and the space.

www.theeleventhhourlabel.com

To check out The Eleventh Hour’s pop up shop head here for more details.

FK chats to Arcade Projects’ Cubicle; A collaboration between Mel from Roger + Peach, Frankie from
The Design Kids, Melissa from Henryetta, Matt from Matthew Roland, and Megan from The Ever Dazzling.

1. Tell us about your labels
Mel – Roger + Peach is a small handmade women’s wear and accessories label of the girly, cute and feminine variety that has been brought into existence slowly but surely by myself.
Frankie – The Design Kids provides a platform for Australian design graduates and working graphic designers to sell one off/ limited edition pieces. We produce cutting edge design products just for you! Tshirts, posters, giant calendars, badges, mo tape, birthday and Christmas cards, zines – you name it, we make it!
Melissa – Henryetta is a sustainable women’s wear clothing label, dedicated to using only natural and environmentally friendly fabrics, processes and ethical practices.
Matt – Matthew Roland is my little way to share my brain and my thoughts. I love the idea that one of my little drawings could brighten someone’s day even just for a minute or two.
Megan – The Ever Dazzling is a label with an appreciation for the pretty things in life with no age limits. Pieces that will make your nana smile just as much as they would your little sister.

2. What lead you to creating your own label?
Frankie – Being a huge lover of typography and seeing a potential in homewears, and finding small projects and designs that may never see the light of day and making them happen.
Melissa – Trying to contribute in anyway possible to lessen our impact on the environment, while creating something I love.
Matt – I’ve always been one of those people who makes ridiculously unachievable plans for projects that probably won’t ever happen. Matthew Roland really really helps me to put all my thoughts aside and just work on those plans and create.
Megan – What started as a blog name in 2009 quickly stemmed through to a label for the mix of pieces I created as means of university procrastination. A focus on fun animal brooches and paper goods with an emphasis on the usability.

3. Who or what inspires your work?
As a collective; Inspiration comes from warm evenings and ice-creams, afternoon tea and family holidays, light rain and huge umbrellas, cute houses and Japanese barcodes, my 1971 Olympus, handpainted signs, roadtrips, those fun moments that you wish you could keep a snippet of forever.

4. What do you propose to do for your upcoming Arcade Space & what can we expect to discover?
For the Arcade Space you can expect; that giant calendar you can scribble all over, plenty of pastels, homemade cushions, original illustrations, presents for that friend’s birthday you forgot all about, typographic posters for your home, sweet little notebooks, rose tees.. and more!

www.rogerandpeach.net
www.thedesignkids.com.au
www.matthewroland.com
www.theeverdazzling.com

Pictured from above  1. The Ever Dazzling 2. The Design Kids 3. Roger + Peach 4. Matthew Roland

FK talks to Sydney fashion designer, Beattie.

Tell us a little more about your self titled clothing label, Beattie.

My name is Beatrice Lanser, but most people call me Beattie. So when deciding on a name for my own Fashion label I decided on “Beattie” as I knew I would never tire of it and it feels comfortable to me. I once wrote to the Royal Family in England when Princess Beatrice was born to tell them that they may like to call her Beattie as a nickname, as it seemed to work well for me. I have clearly always felt like I had something to say! Not following fashion trends, I seek to make clothes that are fun, special and naive. These are clothes you can wear with your favourite vintage cardigan or the tailored Jacket you stole from your Grandpa or that t shirt you picked up last year. All the fabrics I use are made for royalty – think linen, silk, cotton and wool. The unique textiles are limited editions, designed in house and hand screen printed in Sydney by a wonderful family business. All the clothes are handmade by me in a studio on the Northern Beaches of Sydney, though I am hoping to use some local businesses to help me next year.

Can you share your experiences so far and how it lead you to fashion design?

I grew up learning arts and crafts from my mother and grandmothers and learning how to draw from my architect father. When I was old enough I studied a Bachelor of Design in Fashion and Textiles graduating with Honours in 2003.  After studying, my first job was with Sandra Thom a Sydney Fashion designer who learnt how to drape in India. Everything was made by a team of four people including myself in a small room above a shop in Paddington. Each piece was absolutely unique and contained a variety of vintage fabrics in natural fibres and all handstitched together with quilters running stitch. I then moved to London where I worked in design and quality control for a gentlemans shirtmaker and learnt to love menswear and classic styling. Both these jobs influenced me immensely and when I was brave enough, I started my own fashion label in 2008 that brought together my love of handstitching and classic styling.

We love your unique prints! Where do you find the inspiration?

I like looking at what is around me and then reflecting simple elements into drawings. Things that inspire me are: my friends, vintage fabrics, handpainted crockery, architecture details, the sea, gardens, indoor plants, travels to other cultures and movies that make my heart sing. For instance at the moment I have “Gulgong Bessa” which was inspired by the humble Besser Bricks from this sixties public swimming pool in Gulgong [near Mudgee]. I just love their pattern and repeat and the positive negative space and also the feeling I had swimming there last summer. One of the other prints “Rio boardwalk” was inpsired by a trip I took to Brazil last year. There is this landscapre architect who designed a lot of the public walkways, spaces and gardens in Brazil, Roberto Burle Marx – I was so blown away by his work. Rio Boardwalk is my interpretation of the paving on Copacabana beach promenade. I love designing my own prints , that has definately helped me to stand out in the fashion crowd though it is one of the scariest parts too! As the moments when I decide on my prints and the colourways for the season requires great courage and confidence.

What piece of advice would you give to others starting out?

Be you. Have a go. There are a lot of people who talk about what they want to do, but not many who actually do it. It does take great courage to put yourself out in the world on show and be truly you, but the truth is that only you can do what you can do. So why not do what you love! I also remembering getting overwhelmed as my brain catapulted too far into the future. I found that by starting small and having achievable goals was most helpful to me. So instead of saying I am going to design a whole collection and sell it and manufacture it, I just focused on making this one dress, in 2 colours and my own textile print and see how it goes. I knew I could do that. And I did and it has grown from there.

What creative activities do you enjoy in Sydney?

I actually really love Sydney. I love swimming in the ocean looking at the underwater creatures, it is like a special art gallery that requires goggles to see the colours and shapes. I love going to the Sydney Biennale on the old ferries to Cockatoo Island. I love going to see live music, especially at the Enmore Theatre. The acoustics are amazing and it is such a beautiful building. I really enjoy small cafes in Manly, Surry Hills and Darlinghurst. Sitting in cafes is seriously delightful people whatching. I often get inspired by what people are wearing and what they are talking about. I have also been selling at various markets around Sydney and this is seriously fun. But the people you get to meet, the stories you get to tell, the stories you get to hear, it truly encourages my carnival nature! Rozelle markets is a favourite of mine for seaching for that peice of old fabric or hand printed postcard or an enamel bowl, a perfect Sunday activity.

What can we expect from Beattie in 2011?

Well Beattie is going to get bigger in 2011! I have just gone full time on “Beattie” so that I can open my very own shop in Fairlight (just up the hill from Manly), New South Wales! This is something I have not even dared to dream about too much! So I am pretty excited. The shop will be full of clothing for men and women, accessories, handknits and some other things not to be let out of the bag quite yet. So, new textile designs, new styles, new website and some of the classic old Beattie styles to keep me and my customers relaxed.

www.wearbeattie.com.au

FK talks to Rio from Melbourne based label, Boniko’s Safehouse

What can we expect to see from Boniko’s Safehouse?
‘Safehouse’ is somewhere I can escape and explore new ideas, run a sustainable and ethical fashion/design business practice and offer unique products and services not to be found elsewhere. In addition to our signature Japanese toe socks and other organic cotton products, you will also find ‘Boniko’ dolls made of recycled factory seconds toe socks and recycled materials, ‘Boniko’ Jumbo cushions, now both with ‘innergreen’ corn fibre filling! Also one off/re-make/limited production clothing in natural fibre and recycled materials I create under a mini label ‘Blannnk’.

What is your background and how did it result in Boniko’s?
I spent most of my early age at my grandparents’ place where they ran a Kimono sewing and tailoring business in Japan. Our toys, clothes, school bags were made and repaired by my grandparents, and I naturally picked up needles and threads. I was initially trained as a product designer, then a fashion designer, and I also work as a professional pattern maker. Besides my background in fashion industry, ironically I have always had love-hate relationship with fashion. I love the creative and technical process of fashion, but hate the fact that it gets driven purely by the sales figure and disposable seasonal trends. I purely enjoy the process of turning 2D ideas into 3D forms. As a hybrid designer, I had been searching for fashion products which can be treated as non-seasonal objects, then BONIKO was born.

Who or what inspires you?
The person I have been inspired most is an architect, Michael Reynolds and his Earthship. My inspiration often comes from unexpectedly while I m walking on the street or watching people passing by. I’m a big believer of coincidence, being at the right place at the right time. Other source would be my childhood nostalgia, travelling, Flea Markets, Japanese textiles, kimono history and styling, animals, natures and creatures, Old horror films, and something ugly but interesting!

How do you feel your Japanese heritage affects your brand aesthetic?
Japanese term ‘Iki’ often used in Kimono styling, means effortless coolness which comes out unexpectedly. It could be a bright red silk lining when a person takes off a humble black jacket, or it might be a pair of cute socks when the shoes come off. Whether I’m working on a crazy patchwork or simple draping style, I follow the simple rule of “form follows function”. All my design features, from every seam placements to top stitching details, have reasons to be there. I value hidden beauty and timeless quality in design and finish of the products. Besides, Japan is the place where opposite elements reside together in harmony. Old and new, east and west, simplicity and complexity. I feel that the similar juxtaposition is simulated in my work unconsciously, having a huge affects to its aesthetic.

You have recently just made the big move from Perth to Melbourne. What will you miss in Perth?
My family; my 12 year old puppy Bonnie, crazy bulldog Chai and a ferret Kin. My house in the hills, surrounded by bushland and wild visitors. We have resident possum and magpie families, kookaburra couple, blue tongue lizards. A friendly goat visited us one time, whilst a not so friendly emu chased poor Bonnie around the block! Its really wild out there!

What are your plans for the second half of 2010?
Cutting down on freelance pattern making work and concentrating on my own design to fill our new store with fresh creations. Now I have my base in Melbourne, I would love to participate in more design markets.
I’m also currently working on a collaborative project with a textile designer based in Melbourne for an up and coming exhibition.

www.imagineboniko.com

FK chats to Rhea about her super cute label, Bonsai Kitten

We love your label! What inspired you to start?
I’ve always been obsessed with good underwear. There’s nothing better than putting on a fun pair to get you in a good mood and start the day out right! I usually start planning my outfit around with my undies (slight OC maybe?!), and can never have enough pairs.

I think I was also inspired by underwear because they’re so simple, and you can really play around with bold colours and prints. Bonsai Kitten has given me the opportunity to make great fitting undies in super-fun styles. And now I have a constant supply of new underwear!

Have you always been a creative soul and how did you get into fashion?
I remember my grandma teaching me to sew when I was about 12. I used to love going to visit her because she was so creative and had a box overflowing with art supplies, and a room full of fabric. I think that was where my love of creating things began.

Since then I’ve always made clothes, I’ve studied Textile Design and had a clothing label which I still operate. Until recently I also dabbled with Costume Design, before deciding to concentrate wholly and solely on fashion for awhile. I love fashion, costume and clothing as it provides such an amazing vehicle for personal expression, and style. Fashion will always come and go but great style is forever!

Where do you get your inspiration from?
I’ve had a fascination with 40’s and 50’s pin-up girls for a long time now, and I think that classic form and style is definitely a thematic through-out my designs. I love the elegance of that era, and that the female form was celebrated for its curves and femininity. I also draw inspiration from an eclectic range of other sources, which include vintage fabrics, music, street art, illustration and generally any innovative creative expression.

What has been the most exciting thing to happen, and what have you learnt since starting your label?
I have only been operating Bonsai Kitten since late 2010 so its still very much in the growth stages, but so far its been amazing getting my product out there and getting such a fabulous response. I’m very excited to be part of the Finders Keepers Market and look forward to expanding my business and taking Bonsai Kitten interstate. I’ve also been hatching some plans for a future Fashion Week installation, so stay tuned!

As a creative person it can be difficult sometimes to stay motivated to tackle the business side of things, but one of the things most important things I’ve learned is perseverance and hardwork do pay off.

What is your workspace like and what inspires you about your surroundings?
To be completely honest my work space is a bit of a disaster. I have a tiny studio which is always super cluttered with fabrics, trims, lace, cotton and general bric-brac everywhere. I’m trying to instil a better natural order, which is happening slowly.

I went to the Nicholson Building open studios in Melbourne last year and was so inspired by some of the beautiful spaces there that I came back and whipped my studio into a more aesthetically pleasing place to be in, which has definitely helped me work my effectively.

What plans do you have for the label in the future?
At the moment I’ve been concentrating on getting the label up and running, and have been focusing on just underwear. However, I’d really like to explore making bras and camisoles to match my undie designs, and also designing boxer shorts in the future. I’ve always really loved kimono style wraps, so maybe a lil foray into sleepwear may develop and time unfolds.

FK talks to Asher from Tasmania based label Borderline Rifraf.

Tell us about your organic tshirt label, Borderline Rifraf.
Borderline Rifraf is my organic t-shirt label, which I started in 2005 with my partner Jacinta. I hand print original designs onto Fair Trade Organic T-shirts in our home studio. I also make screen prints of the illustrations.

Our aim is to create a sustainable business using imagination and an emphasis on social and environmental awareness. We use organic cotton t-shirts which are WRAP certified fair trade, which is really important to us.

What are your backgrounds and how did you get started?
I was always drawing from a young age and when I decided to go to Art School I chose printmaking as there was no drawing major. Screen printing ended up being the perfect medium for me because I could draw intricate illustrations and I love the philosophy of selling large numbers of prints at affordable prices as opposed to singular works to one person for a hefty sum.

As soon as I made my first print (a tiny flying skull) I was hooked, I’m now always thinking of the next design by time the last one goes into production.

What are the inspirations for the t-shirt designs?
Most of the designs are inspired by music, I listen to a lot of Tom Waits, Nick Cave, Modest Mouse and old Blues musicians like Mississippi John Hurt. Whenever there’s music on I get a lot of imagery in my head and sketch it down, then those sketches evolve into the illustrations. I’m also inspired by old sea tales, mythology, tattoos, graffiti, surrealism.

Where we are living is very influential in my work, Hobart Harbour, the hills and animals in the Huon Valley and the ocean that surrounds Southern Tasmania. There are so many talented artists and designers at the moment, and so I am extremely inspired by all work that’s around at the moment.

What do you love about producing your own designs and what are the challenges?
I love all aspects of making the products, from the sketches to screen printing and then sending them off to customers and stockists. It’s very rewarding being involved in all the stages. I like to outsource as little as possible, mainly because to me having a sustainable business involves self sufficiency and control over the quality, the materials used and the products end up spending less time on the road.

Breaking into the market is a challenge especially because I want Borderline Rifraf to be as sustainable as possible which has higher costs than if used overseas labour and mass production to keep prices down. It surprises me how many T-shirts we can print ourselves when we are working up to a big order or a Market like the Finders Keepers!!

What did you love about living in the Blue Mountains?
There are a lot of really creative and talented people in the Blue Mountains, a good community of artists and musicians and of course the epic scenery so there’s a lot to like about it. I lot of my childhood was spent living in the Blue Mountains which really encouraged my creativity. We just spent a year up there again, which gave us some perspective on how quickly the creative scene has grown and evolved.

We moved down to Hobart four years ago, and studied at the Art School and spent a lot of time around the Harbour with all it’s beautiful ships. After spending time up in NSW, we have just moved to the Huon Valley in Tasmania which is also just as beautiful and very similar in that there is a community of creative people around. We have some really amazing Design Markets in Hobart too!

What new designs or work can we expect to see in 2011?
Jacinta is a furniture, object and fashion designer and we are working on a few collaborative products which will be ready next year. We are also developing a more in depth kids range including furniture and clothing.

I have just finished a new illustration called Deertopia which will be available soon, it’s probably the most intricate and detailed work I’ve done so far.

http://borderlinerifraf.com/

FK talks to Belinda Crossley about her Melbourne based textiles label Brkich.

Tell us a little about your label, Brkich.
brkich is a small scale clothing and accessory label with the main focus being on hand screen printed fabrics. All products are limited in numbers and are printed and made by hand. brkich prints and garments are designed to be playful and distinctive; the quirky use of unusual motifs creates an identifiable style. brkich is only in its first year… and at the moment is most defiantly a one woman show! So at this point all aspects of the design and production process are undertaken by myself, from the initial fabric design and pattern making right through to the hand screen printing and sewing.

Whats your background and how did you end up in textiles?
I grew up living in an old butter factory turned art gallery in rural Gippsland, so I was constantly surrounded by creative people and plenty of open spaces. From a very young age I was constantly making things; a favourite medium was cardboard. As time went on cardboard creations eventually gave way to cutting up and remaking my own clothes and this just seemed to stick. I have never (and still don’t) think of myself as a fashion designer. I make beautiful objects and I enjoy the process of doing so, I think of myself simply as a ‘maker’ rather than a fashion designer. One day a textiles student came and did a live-in residency at the gallery where I lived and it just all made sense! By studying textiles I am now able to control all aspects of the creative process, begin completely from scratch.

Who or what do you find inspires your work?
Since the really early days I was always fascinated and inspired by the work of sculptor Claes Oldenburg and also the fabrics and wallpapers of the Scottish design company Timorous Beasties. I am inspired by every day objects and odd couplings, I love taking things out of context and seeing the results.

Tell us about your creative process.
Process is very important to me, a lot of my designs really come into their own once I actually begin the physical process. My fabric and garment designs go hand in hand. I would rarely design a fabric without a finished garment in mind and visa versa. I don’t work from formal patterns, all my garments are initially designed via draping on the body. I start sampling very early in the design process and a fabric design or garment can undergo many changes before I reach my final finished product. I really enjoy the physicality of screen printing. There is nothing more satisfying than printing a whole roll of fabric and seeing all your creation drying on the table. Hand printing my own fabric is something that I would never give up.

What do you love about your surroundings?
Melbourne is a fantastic city to live and work in, it is incredibly supportive of new creatives and it is inspiring to see so many people doing so many wonderful things! Growing up in the country I certainly crave open spaces… but I have just moved to Thornbury, which kind of feels like the country!

Do you have any new products for the FK Melbourne markets happening soon?
At the coming Finders Keepers market I will be showing of a small range of garments and leather accessories. My newest fabric ‘Ark’ will be in the form of cropped summer tees, due to the nature of the print each of the garments are unique, showing a different part of the fabric. I am sharing my stall with jenhalldesigns; Jen makes beautiful photographic earrings and brooches… it’s all very exciting!

brkich.wordpress.com

FK talks to the lovely Belinda from Melbourne based label brkich.

Can you tell the story about how brkich came to be?
brkich is the realisation of an ambition that I have had for a long time. I have always dabbled in making garments and I studied textiles with a major in screen printing at rmit. I love exploring textures, colours and form. Fabric and clothing is simply my natural expression outlet. With brkich, I have finally created a formal label and I am working hard to make it go further and further.

Can you tell us the story behind the name?
I really struggled with finding a name!! I mulled over it for a long time. I wanted something that was strongly associated with me as an individual but not directly but not an immediately obvious link. Brkich is my grandmothers maiden name. I like that it’s association is quite subtle. People always assume it’s an imaginary word; but I believe it’s quite common in Croatia!

What is your own background and what lead you into textiles?
I grew up in rural Gippsland, in a big old butter factory which my mother converted to an art gallery. I have always been creatively inclined… And I always struggled with the distinction between art/design/fashion. Once I discovered that textile design existed… It was really an easy choice…

Your prints are really distinctive – where do you find inspiration?
Everywhere… Ideas can be sparked from colours in a tiled floor or the texture in a blurry photograph. An image really changes once it gets drapped around the body. I like to see what happens when I use an unlikely images and playing with scale.

What has been the biggest reward since you started the label and what keeps you motivated?
That people enjoy wearing my creations as much as I enjoy making them! Seeing a stranger on the streets wearing on of my garments was a really big deal for me. So happy! I honestly believe that you get out as much as you put it. That helps me keep going.

What do you have planned for brkich in 2011?
I have just got my first stockist, Kids in Berlin in North Melbourne; which I am very happy about! That was a huge confidence boost. I would really like to broaden my range, get a few more prints and styles out there and get into a few more stores.

http://brkich.wordpress.com/

Tell us about your label Das Monk and what inspired you start.
Das Monk is a label that specialises in graphic tees and sweatshirts, although we’re currently working on a few other pieces at the moment. I started the label in 2007 because I love art, design, and fashion, and thought that graphic t-shirts were starting to become obnoxious and overbearing with lame slogans, so I began to create designs that were more unique and concentrated instead on the artwork itself.

Where did the name Das Monk come from?
They were just two words I liked that I thought looked and sounded good together. In the early days I made up this weird story about a German monk who was outcast from his monastery for being obsessed with t-shirts but I killed that story when all the press we got kept saying that I was a former monk from Strudelberg, Germany.

What is your background in design and how has your path lead to having your own label?
I have a background in architecture, and at university I was always way more into the art electives than anything to do with designing buildings. I also have an irrational fear of working in an office, so I figured that I needed to something more creative and be my own boss, which led to starting my own label. I now work from my home office which unfortunately leads to a very relaxed take on personal grooming and work attire.

What inspires your work?
There are a couple of clothing labels that always inspire me… PAM from Melbourne and Alakazam from Japan. Other than that, I find inspiration from all kinds of mediums – from art to film to music lyrics. So anything from MC Escher to David Lynch to The Pixies. I just make sure I keep a digital scrapbook going on my laptop so it’s always stored somewhere, because unfortunately my brain is not so reliable.

What has been the most suprising factor that you have learnt in running your label?
It’s been a bit of a process, but I’m starting to become quite an organised person, which is quite an accomplishment for someone who doesn’t own a matching pair of socks. You don’t have any other choice when you’re the boss and you want to run an efficient business.

What advice can you give to others on running their own creative business?
I guess the best advice is that if you want to be successful it’s 5% talent and 95% promotion. So even if you’re the next Picasso, you still need to be a good self-promoter, or nobody’s going to know about your business. Although the internet is making life a little bit easier in that regard, God bless it.

http://dasmonk.com

Tell us a little bit about the Donna Sgro label.
Donna Sgro is a womenswear label infused with a quirky, playful and light-hearted spirit.  The garments mix the high quality finishes and attention to detail of tailoring with the relaxed attitude of a sportive approach.  A Donna Sgro garment is designed as a unique piece that will become a cherished part of the wardrobe, and resists seasonal trends.  Recognised internationally by the Director of Issey Miyake and President of Chanel Japan as a designer with a unique talent, Donna Sgro’s latest collection, Octopus’s Garden, was recently launched as part of the 1st SHINMAI Creator’s Project at Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo.  This was an amazing opportunity for the label, with ISETAN Department Store in Tokyo the first to pick up the Octopus’s Garden range.

What is your background and what motivated you to start your own label?
Originally I studied art theory and philoshophy and was really motivated to find a way to interpret my research into a creative outcome.  I am driven largely by curiosity and interested in making things so fashion design came about as a great way for me to explore all my interests and be creative.  I have always been very independent minded and wanted to start something creative that I could work at and build upon.

What is your creative process in starting a range?
My creative process is quite involved – I like to draw inspiration from a lot of different sources, so it is usually something that evolves over time but then focuses when time restraints come to bear.  I like to work with a strong visual concept and do some background research to be able to draw information for designing from.  I also like to start with most of my materials to hand so I know what I am working with.  Mostly I design a textile print to work within the fashion range so this will be started alongside sketching out the range.  I make lots and lots of revisions and prototypes before the final product is sampled!

What other fashion designers influence you?
I think for me influences come from everywhere, not necessarily from other fashion designers.  I am influenced by people who successfully communicate a vision for a different world.  Fashion designers who I admire and respect for their originality would include Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garcons), Hussein Chalayan and Walter van Beirendonck.

What important factors do you think it takes to successfully start your own label?
I think a lot of patience, perseverence and belief in what you do is essential.  A combination of creativity and business acumen is a must, together with establishing a great support network of people in your industry, and a real willingness to put in the hours!

What is your workspace like and what things do you surround yourself with?
My workspace teeters between being incredibly organised and periodically disorganised! I love to work surrounded in an environment of music definitely but there are also odd things we collect such as robots, lambs, rayguns and plastic furniture thrown into the mix.  And of course my small dog Pepito accompanies me everyday to the studio so there is always a friendly tail wagging.

Where to now? What are you working on at the moment?
Currently I am working on production for the Octopus’s Garden range.  This is a transeasonal range which will be developing over the coming year.  I am planning forward for the label into next year with some changes ahead.  Of particular interest to me at the moment is research into fabrics.  Currently I source 90% of my fabrics from Japan and am looking at ways to ensure fabrics I use are as sustainable as possible and make minimal impact on the environment.  I already use a large percentage of tencel fibre and am looking into ways to extend this usage and source other fabrics that minimise impact on the environment.

http://www.donnasgro.com/